Greater Abilene Scale Modelers

Lesson 1  - Introduction to Scale Modeling

Models and young builders seem to have always been around but the way models were built fifty years ago would have been very different. Model builders in the World War II era built out of balsa wood and tissue. A few more ambitious modelers carved their creations from solid wood using a plan as a guide.  About this time, the solid plastic (Bakelite^®) models began to appear. They were used to help pilots recognize Allied and Axis aircraft. In Europe, the simple styrene plastic models issued pre-war from the FROG company began to be manufactured again and distributed worldwide. In North America, companies such as Revell^®, Aurora^®,  and Monogram^® began making plastic model kits in the late 1940's. The model kits at first were very toy-like and other than they required assembly, did not resemble modern models.

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 Lesson 2  - Modeling Tools

To build plastic models, you will want to create a "tool kit" of basic tools and materials along with some more specialized tools and materials. For the most part, inexpensive tools and materials are available and you can even find household and hardware items to fill up your tool kit. The basic tool/material list is: Read more »

Lesson 3 - Research and planning

To make a model a miniature replica, the builder must take the time and care to build the model to look real. You must first plan out the project from start to finish. Research for specific details is what will make your model a more precise replica.

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Lesson 4 - Construction

Work Space: You will need a room with a flat working space- the larger the better. Avoid bedrooms if you can as they are too dusty for painting. Most often a garage, basement room or recreation room will be the work space but a custom-designed room will be the best! You will also need lots of light, preferably from windows or from a high-intensity light. Try to find an area where you can work for several hours without being bothered as you may have to leave glued or painted parts in place overnight without moving them. Assembly: Protect your working area by spreading a newspaper or drop cloth under the model. This will protect the table surface from spilled glue or paint. Read the kit manufacturers instructions carefully before starting and familiarize yourself with the way the kit will be assembled. The following are the general assembly steps to model kit construction: Read more »

Lesson 5 - Painting

Brushes and Paint: Be sure your brushes are soft. clean, and flexible. Keep them that way by cleaning with brush cleaner or mineral spirits. Bottle paints should be stirred completely with a stick handle or toothpick. Spray paints must be shaken thoroughly- you can hear the agitator ball in the can. Two types of paint are usually used: Oil based enamels which spread thinly and spray very well and water based acrylic which are easy to clean up and cover very well. Match your paint thinners to the type of  paints. Follow these steps in painting: Read more »

Lesson 6 - Finishing Techniques

Decals: Decals usually come with model kits but you can purchase additional decals to make your model more realistic. Some decals are stick-on but most of them are water-slide decals. Attached with the following method: Read more »

Lesson 7 - detailing

Stretched Sprue: "Sprue" (aka parts tree) is the tubular plastic branch that your parts came attached to. There are many materials and pre-molded parts available for adding your own small details to models, but one of the most basic is the left-over plastic in your kit. If held over a candle until it is soft, it can be stretched to make threads of different thickness. These are useful for making aerials, flying wires, spark plug cables, etc. Take both ends of the plastic in either hand and place it about one inch above a candle flame but not close enough to catch fire. Be careful. When the plastic has started to distort, it can be pulled apart with an even motion. Hold apart until the plastic cools. With practice you will get the thickness and length desired.

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Lesson 8 - Presentation & Display

Display Base: Constant handling is a problem for a model that is not protected in some way. Little details such as aircraft landing gear, AFV machine guns, and ship masts will soon snap off if people pick up the models. Mounting your model on some type of base so the base, rather than the model itself, can be handled and moved about is a solution. Hardware, craft and hobby shops sell wooden plaques with fancy beveled edges that come suitable sizes for most models. Plaques can be finished with a simple paint job or with the same kind of sanding and varnishing you'd give a piece of furniture. A thick piece of clear plastic also can serve as a base if the edges are beveled and sanded to give it a finished look. Larger models can be mounted on plywood or plastic bases cut to fit a model's dimensions. An inexpensive picture frame with the glass taken out can also serve as a nice display base. The model can sit on its own weight or be held in place with pins or fine wires. Placing a group of models or figures onto a base that has texture can also create a diorama setting. Whatever base you choose, it will enhance the appearance of your model and enable you to handle the model without touching any of its delicate details.

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Lesson 9 - Airbrushing

Airbrushing: The airbrush can be described as a "mechanical paintbrush". By placing paint in an attachment to the airbrush and then applying some kind of air pressure, the modeler can achieve anything from pencil-thin lines of color, to uniform coverage of broad areas. Subtle tonal gradations are easy to achieve, and the modeler or artist can mix their own particular paint shade to produce any color scheme.

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Lesson 10 - Scratch Building

Scratchbuilding: Why get into the area of scratchbuilding or making your own models? Basically, even though plastic kits are available for most modeler's interests, there are still examples of subjects that are not offered by manufacturers, a need to improve upon current models and the chance to create special bases for a completed model. In all of these areas, scratchbuilding techniques are needed.

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